January 29, 2015

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View of the 15th arrondissement from my apartment window in the 16th arrondissement

Ma cherie,

*****So basic rundown of how Paris is set up: 20 arrondissements- number one is in the middle, then they spiral like a snail’s shell out and as they spiral out they get bigger. Most arrondissements or quartiers have their own unique thing, for lack of a better word. Examples: 2-Louvre, 5-Latin quarter, 6-St. Germain de Prés, 7-Eiffel tower, 13-Chinatown, 16-MY HOME, 18-Montmarte. I know I’m just throwing a bunnnnccchhh of information at you thats difficult to relate to so bare with me. That is all central Paris or zones 1-2. THEN (like any other city) there are suburbs, and each little suburb has a name like its own little town. So inside the city we use the metro, and then the metro that takes you out of the city is called the RER and that takes you to the suburbs.

So sorry I just put you through all of that. Added note: at the end of a lot of the lines are chateaux or rich lil burbs and the ones in between just blah. RELEVANCE: I have started doin’ me a little explorin’ outside center Paris.

So the other day I went to La Défense which is a prominent skyline outside of Paris full of really modern buildings. It’s more business than residential. All of these things I knew before going. And yet, when I went and it was the most unexpected, weird, futuristic places I could’ve imagined. You know the future part of back to the future? Or the Jetsons? Holy moly. So you step out and there’s this huge square office building with a big ole hole in it the middle, thats called the Grande Arche and it lines up perfectly with the Arc de Triomphe. And then there’s this huge all pedestrian walk through the center of la defense and the roads and cars are just hangin’ out underneath that. There is loads of really cool buildings and art work and plants! I think I was mostly shocked by the contrast between the sparkly, tall, and glassy “Paris” and the old, romantic, tan-colored-building “Paris” I know. AND: there’s a chipotle there! (woooohooo), BUT: there is no queso (so why even chipotle?)

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View of La Défense from Arc de Triomphe
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Iris, La Défense
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View of Arc de Triomphe from La Défense (it’s there, I promise!)

          In stark contrast I also went to Versailles, the city where the Chateau of Versailles is located— shocker right? Anywho, the château was built in the 1600’s by Louis the XIV, who also started construction of the Louvre (so they look similar). But the château is just really big and full of stuffy furniture. Architecturally, I don’t think it compares to some of the châteaux we saw in the Loire Valley — although the gold covered everything was a *subtle* reminder of the wealth that used to be. The gardens on the other hand were super impressive and huge and I’d just like to see the army of garden gnomes trimming the hedges and digging lakes wherever the royalty wish. Walked through the gardens to Marie Antoinette’s estate. Pink marble, pink curtains, pink seat cushions, pink china — gag me with a spoon. I’ll have to go back during the spring when there are flowers and I can walk outside without getting that red-nose, frozen-hands stuff.

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Château de Versailles
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Galerie des Glaces (Hall of Mirrors), Château de Versailles
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Le Petit Trianon (Marie Antoinette’s estate), Château de Versailles

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Aside from that I’ve just been hangin’ out being a cliché, literally sitting in a café drinking a café au lait while writing this. I went on a little promenade (is that also a word for a walk in english?) through chinatown, which is more like chinajapanthialandcambodiatown. Still in and out of museums and hiding from the weather. Ah and then one night this last week my friend with a connection got us into this famous club called VIP and it just so happened that it was the night that Paris Men’s Fashion Week was finished so all the models were out and it just so happened that the first people we talked to when we got into the club were the Calvin Klein models because this is Paris and these things happen so casually. But we ended up going to an after party with the Calvin Klein models. I just can’t get over it. Calvin Klein models, Calvin Klein models, Calvin Klein models, you know the ones that do photo shoots and walk the cat walks. AH whatever I didn’t freak out or anything. Anyways, that’s all I’ve got for now.. Counting down the days till you visit.

xxxxx,

Elise

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Chinatown, 13th arrondissement
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Pic or it didn’t happen?

January 20, 2015

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Nymphéa, Claude Monet, l’Orangerie

Claaaair,

So things are finally almost back to normal in spite of the ak-47-laden gendarmeries (military personal/police officers) and random *frequent* bag checks. The streets of Paris are becoming increasingly marred with Je suis Charlie, which I find quite comforting. On wednesday the new Charlie Hebdo magazine was released. The cues were hours long and all the kiosks were sold out within 15 minutes of their opening. Side note: a kiosk is what I call the newsstands right outside of each metro station. I got up at 6 am on friday to get one of the 2 million additional prints and they were sold out within 30 minutes. Weirdly enough walking home with one tucked under my arm, I felt like Charlie (from the chocolate factory) with his golden ticket. I was asked by 2 people where I bought mine, and another woman was all “Oh la la la la you got one.” Keep in mind this is maybe a 5 minute walk.

The weathers been quite terrible so I’ve been hibernating in different museums. Centre Pompidou had on a couple nice exhibitions, my favorites being Frank Ghery (Canadian architect) and Jeff Koons (American artist). The Koons exhibit was just really fun and colorful in contrast to the awful yuck that is the weather. The Pompidou is always like that though; I appreciate all of the modern artwork, but with that being said I feel that some of it walks a fine line between “ whoa thats really neat” and “I could do that.” My favorite part of any musée in Paris though would have to be the 5th floor of the beautiful trian-station-turned- museum — Musée d’Orsay. It is a treasure trove of the most incredible paintings from the impressionism period. It’s full of the paintings you grew up seeing on overlooked posters at the doctor’s office. I have spent enough time there that I can tell you (solely by the artists paint strokes) who painted what; Renior, Sisley, Manet, Cézanne, Degas, Monet. Ugh but there is THE most fabulous Monet in the Musée de l’Orangerie. They are oval rooms with a huge ‘Nymphéa’—or water lily painting— stretched across each wall. One of the most serene places I know in Paris.

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Jeff Koons, Centre Georges Pompidou
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Jeff Koons, Centre Georges Pompidou
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Jeff Koons, Centre Georges Pompidou

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                           I’m not a stuffy old museum-hag yet though! I swear have a life outside museums outside of all that. More to come in a bit. Much love darling.

Bisous,

Elise

January 12, 2015

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Chère Clair,

After the 2 glorious weeks I spent at home I was ready to go back to my home away from home. I think on my way back to Paris I experienced almost every travel cliché that exists, getting an unnecessary pat-down by TSA, sitting next to crying babies, the snoring man that falls asleep on you, etc… And then I had finally returned to the land of cheap wine, baguette, and pastries like you would not believe. Im back to speaking and thinking in French, which feels surprisingly normal.

Returning was fantastic but the jet-lag was horrid, and not even 3 days after I returned Paris was attacked by terrorists. The 7th of January is a day I will not ever forget. 12 people were killed at Charlie Hebdo, a satirical magazine. Being from the USA we hear about terrorism and loss of life all the time, how many people die due to gun violence in one day in the US? I think we have become completely desensitized to it. But in France– Europe even– there aren’t guns. So up until that moment I had been whimsically and thoughtlessly wandering through streets because my biggest concern was what museum I would visit– Paris was my safe-haven. And then to find out a female police officer had been shot in the south of Paris the next day.. I immediately retreated into my chambre-de-bonne (my one room apartment), shocked that this could be happening.. The 9th is another day that will live in infamy in the back of all french minds. The brothers who had killed 12 had taken one person hostage in a city to the north of Paris, and simultaneously the man who shot the cop had taken a handful of hostages in eastern Paris. For whatever reason I could not hold it together, me and all my friends were constantly updating each other and it was just so unbelievable. Throughout the day there were announcements to stay inside, avoid windows, and leave the lights off. I had a friend not even a mile from the hostage situation inside Paris– it was my worst nightmare. Oh and then whilst walking to get baguette (*I AM AN IDIOT*) there was a bomb threat called into Trocadero, a major touristic Eiffel Tower view, which coincidentally is a 7 minute walk from my apartment. False alarm, but alas the panic was in full effect. At this point I ran inside and watched the news. “Its getting dark — waiting — undescribed situation — 4 explosions — gunfire– two more explosions.” Then it was over. 4 hostages dead, 3 of 4 hostage-takers dead and a sense of something (I can’t call relief) took over my body.

What shocked me more than the events themselves was the nation’s reaction. Being a french citizen and having spent a lot of my life here I know french people – stubborn and passionate. I feel that Americans love to say french people are rude, but its also their point of view as tourist, I mean who actually likes tourists? What I saw was a nation that stood together. The night of the first attack 35,000 people gathered at Place de la République in solidarity against terrorist acts on freedom of speech, thus, JE SUIS CHARLIE was born. We hear about attacks all over constantly, but when something like this happens in a place you call home it flattens you. I am still unable to form the right words in a way that makes grammatical sense to express how scary and sickening it is. Again on Sunday there was another march. It was the largest gathering in french history with 1.3 million people in Paris, and 4 million people in all of france. The energy was incredible. These are my brothers and my sisters, the prime ministers and presidents of the worlds most powerful countries, and we were all standing together because we were not afraid. We are not afraid. Vive la liberté. It was the most fulfilling day of my life. And it’s because of these people, standing to protect freedom of speech, that I can sit here right now and write what I please. For that I am forever grateful.

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Miss you so much Clair-Bear.

Groses Bises xx

Elise